By Lisa Bogler
Amedzofe near Ho is a mountain village in the Avatime Hills. It offers brilliant hiking opportunities and stunning views across lush green landscapes.
Ho, although capital of the Volta Region, is a sleepy town. At a time where other cities are already bustling, Ho is still quiet. Very few stalls are occupied, we have problems finding any food. The women selling pineapple and mango are missing. In the end, we are happy with the yam chips and pepper we find at the lorry station. I munch my unusual breakfast as we drive up a steep road, overlooking more and more of the green valleys between the green mountains. I like this region. Our taxi is heading to Amedzofe, a mountain village in the Avatime Hills “that offers breathtaking vistas, a waterfall, forests, cool climate and plenty of hiking opportunities” as my guide book promises.
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| Mt Gemi |
The village itself is small but it has a visitor centre where we meet a young guy. Having paid the fee (2 cedis each for volunteers plus 1 cedi camera fee) he shows us how to go to Mt Gemi, with its 611 m one of the highest mountains in the area. It is only a short walk up to the 4-metre-tall iron cross and the view is amazing. Mountains covered in green dotted with a few small villages everywhere you look. Due to the clear air we can even see Lake Volta in the distance. The sun is shining, but the few clouds keep it from burning down on us, which is good as there are no trees providing shade. Heading back along the small path, we meet an old man who welcomes us warmly. He tells us that the cross was put up by Germans and also a number of other buildings in this area. I can understand why the German missionaries decided to stay in this area back in the 1880. As we approach the village, we hear drumming and singing, but I don’t know where it is coming from exactly. It makes the atmosphere very friendly, though.
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| Ote waterfall |
Our next hike’s destination is the Ote waterfall (fee is three cedis per person). This time, we take a guide with us, a second young man we meet at the visitor centre. He fills us in about the village and its people. About the language they speak, for example. Most of the people here are farmers, planting all kinds of crops. The ground is definitely very fertile. The talking ceases as the path changes from a flat road to a steep track. A rope supports us as we slowly make our way down to the water, half slipping. It is worth it. The waterfall is rather small and does not carry much water at the moment, but the place is beautiful. A quiet and peaceful hideaway that, according to our guide, was found by a hunter hundreds of years ago. I believe him. This place is not as impressive as the high Wli Falls but much more magic. A perfect setting for a fairy-tale without evil characters, the water rustling over and around some rocks from one pond into lower ponds. Unfortunately, we can’t stay forever and start climbing up again, having taken the inevitable pictures. Clouds are gathering in the sky now. The guide explains how the weather is unpredictable here. Sun and blue sky one moment, heavy rain the next moment.
We hope to get back before the rain starts. I don’t want to imagine a car trying to get down the road when rain is pouring down. There is no car for a very long time, anyway. We wait at the street where we have been told to wait and watch the clouds pass, eating small green and sweet bananas we just bought from a stall. There is not much else to do in the village. Other people are waiting, with bags next to them. We hope for a Tro where everybody can fit in, but there is no car at all. A taxi passes but it is full. Another taxi passes but it doesn’t take any passengers, I don’t understand why. We start walking down the road when finally a Trotro comes. We get in before it enters the village which is good. As soon as the door opens, the waiting people try to squeeze in, leaving their luggage behind. From inside the car they then direct boys outside to pack the luggage in the boot. It is difficult to count but we are about twenty people in the car plus the driver. That is a record for me, I think. We make it safely back to Ho, however, and rest our legs from the hiking.
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